04/13/10
This morning we took a taxi to the airport. We all agreed that it was the best way to get there. We got something to eat and found out why eating in an airport can break your budget. Since you're captive once you check in, they can charge anything they like for a bagel and cream cheese. I think they even charged for each tomator and leaf of lettuce. My advice, don't find yourself hungry in an airport.
Our flight across the Atlantic was great with TAP (Portugal), long but bearable. However when we changed planes at Newark, NJ, the Air Alaska plane was cramped and soooo commercial. They had the stewardesses selling everything that we had just had included on the previous plane. Welcome to America, land of profit. I never understood the concept of "first class" before, but after pressing my knees against the seat in front of me for 7 hrs., having the guy behind me pull my hair, not being fed and no movies, I was drained by the time we arrived at Sea-Tac. However, there was one beautiful view of the Great Lakes down below me for about 45 mins. It was my first time to see them.
A big thank you to Cesily and Nic who picked us up and brought us home. The airline lost our back packs, so we had to leave without our luggage. We were so jet lagged and overwhelmed by the time we got home, I don't remember the time between getting off the plane and about two days later, emerging from my stooper with a blinding headache and blasting ringing in my ears.
And so it ends and begins. Our pilgrimage continues. We have already had some events happen here at home that would have blown us away before we went on the Camino. I just don't feel upset. I know that good things are in the works and it's just a matter of intending that things work out and they will.
My friend Michele said that we would come back in a "Zen space" and so we have. Now the real challenge is to let go of concern and know that the camouflage is just that; camouflage, not reality. The reality is that we are OK and we will make it and even if the way is steep or the going is rough, step by step we can do it. I love you, dear family and friends. I do.
Sunday, April 18, 2010
Friday, April 16, 2010
Return to Lisbon
Return to Lisbon
04/10/10
Today we gave Tina her stepping stone and she gave me two going away presents too. We hugged and she helped us call a taxi to get our heavy packs to the hotel. There we caught the 11:30 bus to Albuferia. Then we changed buses for the long ride to Lisbon. When we got to Lisbon we took Rafael's advice and got a pensiona in the Praca Alegria neighborhood. Then we went for Internet and food.
We missed Rafael's call because we were in a dead zone for phone reception. They came ready with a present of a bottle of wine and everything. That was sad. We really wanted to see them before we left. Well, we'll just have to keep in touch online.
We lunched on the steps of a theater dedicated to Reina Maria II. On the corner of the plaza was the police station. Tucked into a small corner of the plaza was an apparent restaurant with very exclusive clientèle. It was called Gambrinus. Taxis came and went dropping off the well dressed and not famous. The doorman, whom we named Anton because it suited him, stood in his crisp uniform and hat guarding the entrance. He dutifully and with flare conducted the business of arrival and departure, taxi fetching, food delivery of take out to the police, parking cars in a plaza so small and already filled with parked cars that only the truly creative could find a sliver of space to insert another.
We made up a story that we continued throughout our vigil while waiting for phone calls. We told it to each other as the scene unfolded. Gambrinus became the place where high level deals are cut by behind-the-scenes officials of the government. Anton knew it all but wasn't telling. He was the essence of discretion. The police pulled up and he handed them bribes through the car window in brown paper bags. Every passer-by was an agent of one kind or another, their seemingly innocent cell phone conversation reporting on us, the spies on the steps. On and on our fictional narrative went to entertain ourselves as we waited.
There were plenty of characters to enliven our tale. Some others joined us on the steps, at a polite distance. They were holding the microphones behind their newspapers, adjusting for maximum pick up. There were boys with dreads on skateboards passing by and young people with instruments in cases. We commented on how the secret service was recruiting them younger and younger these days. This is how we pleasantly passed the afternoon.
04/11/10
Wow, you should see the bathroom to this little room we have. It's all in sky blue tile. Only in Portugal! Hot water, huge tub. I'm in heaven. We'll just live in it, forget the bed room.
We had moved to the central plaza because we were aware that our room must be a dead zone for phones. We couldn't afford to miss any more calls. We watched the world go by. Lisbon is a busy place with lots of things going on, little dramas all around. Emergency vehicles with loud sirens, homeless people begging, tourist buses with open upper decks going by and lots of style. Everybody wares the latest fashions. I guess Europe is where they come from, so if you want to know what will show up in the US next season, see it here first.
Fatima called about 7:30 and picked us up in front of the train station. Her husband, Manual was with her. They took us on an unexpected tour of Old Lisbon by night. We ended up at a little restaurant Called Va E Volte. They treated us to a dinner of Pulpo, (Polvo in Portuguese) and blackened pork. Then we walked to a point over the city and admired the lighted monuments and cathedrals. It was a different Lisbon than we'd seen all day. We got to see it through the eyes of people who love Lisbon.
They took us to their house, a cozy place with mementos of their trips to 5 continents. They are very interesting people! We slept in their children's rooms, since their children are both grow up. Good sleep.
04/12/10
Today Fatima dropped us off at the train station and we went to Sintra, a village that had come highly recommended. On the train we chatted with a woman who spoke good English. When she got to her stop she said, "Never change, you're perfect the way you are". Wow, such an unexpected compliment. I have changed though. I know it will be a challenge to keep what I've learned with me when I get home and back to a familiar space. However, I am determined to keep what I have learned. I have learned that I am safe and rocked in the cradle of the universe. All I have to do is put an intention out into the universe, and I get what I need. It's so cool! Hopefully it will work when I get back.
Today we are ordinary tourists doing the tourist thing. We buy a ticket for a bus that stops at four popular points of interest. We got to a Moorish Castle from 800 AD. It was a long way to the top of a mountain and the bus dropped us off at the bottom, so today is a walking day. We climbed ancient stairs up and up.
Four years ago when we were in Paris I didn't climb all the way to the top of the Eiffel Tower. I stopped half way. I've always regretted that. So today I am determined not to give up until I can see from here to the sea at the very top of the highest turret of the castle. The steps are worn with the footfalls of many people through the ages. They are steep and clearly made for solders who have an ample stride. Not exactly standard modern rise. The wall was very tall, the steps are not regular and it is not railed.
I must admit that I stumbled and if I hadn't been holding Eric's hand I would be a stain on the mountain side for sure. These Moorish guys really build CASTLES! I kept climbing. The developing view was unbelievable! From every successive vantage point I could see more of the area below. It would be hard to sneak up on this castle without being seen. We wandered in and out of the rock ruins of rooms and towers, granaries and water storage. This castle was totally prepared for a siege of substantial length. Huge boulders were scattered along the mountain side. They just built them into the wall if they were in the path of the build.
On this sight there were signs of bronze age habitation. I guess being up high on the hill was a good place to be for any group who wanted to be safe over the millennia. The Moorish Castle was conquered by Dom(king)Afonso Henriques in 1147. That must have been something to see. I don't know how anyone could do it, it's such a formidable fortress. It was eerie to put my hand on the groves where the bowmen shot arrows at their enemies, foes exchanging places over time.
When I got to the very highest tower I could see all the way to the sea, waves crashing in white spray. I could see the town and all the surrounding towns clear to some mountains. It was a panoramic view that truly took my breath away. It felt very heady and powerful somehow. I could imagine how an arrogant leader full of himself could look out over what he controlled from this place and feel the power. It's enough to make a person feel invulnerable. But of course, they weren"t.
Oh, I forgot to tell you the best part. Across the street from the train station in Sintra was the first thrift store I had seen in Portugal. It was in business to raise money to care for street dogs. I was in my element. I got the last of the charms for my bracelet there and some great presents too. 7.50 Euro.
Then it was time to catch the train back to Lisbon. Fatima picked us up and made dinner for us. We got to meet her daughter who is an architect like her father. She had done the Camino by bike with her scout troupe when she was a teen. She was fun and the food was good. We had a great time our last night in Europe.
04/10/10
Today we gave Tina her stepping stone and she gave me two going away presents too. We hugged and she helped us call a taxi to get our heavy packs to the hotel. There we caught the 11:30 bus to Albuferia. Then we changed buses for the long ride to Lisbon. When we got to Lisbon we took Rafael's advice and got a pensiona in the Praca Alegria neighborhood. Then we went for Internet and food.
We missed Rafael's call because we were in a dead zone for phone reception. They came ready with a present of a bottle of wine and everything. That was sad. We really wanted to see them before we left. Well, we'll just have to keep in touch online.
We lunched on the steps of a theater dedicated to Reina Maria II. On the corner of the plaza was the police station. Tucked into a small corner of the plaza was an apparent restaurant with very exclusive clientèle. It was called Gambrinus. Taxis came and went dropping off the well dressed and not famous. The doorman, whom we named Anton because it suited him, stood in his crisp uniform and hat guarding the entrance. He dutifully and with flare conducted the business of arrival and departure, taxi fetching, food delivery of take out to the police, parking cars in a plaza so small and already filled with parked cars that only the truly creative could find a sliver of space to insert another.
We made up a story that we continued throughout our vigil while waiting for phone calls. We told it to each other as the scene unfolded. Gambrinus became the place where high level deals are cut by behind-the-scenes officials of the government. Anton knew it all but wasn't telling. He was the essence of discretion. The police pulled up and he handed them bribes through the car window in brown paper bags. Every passer-by was an agent of one kind or another, their seemingly innocent cell phone conversation reporting on us, the spies on the steps. On and on our fictional narrative went to entertain ourselves as we waited.
There were plenty of characters to enliven our tale. Some others joined us on the steps, at a polite distance. They were holding the microphones behind their newspapers, adjusting for maximum pick up. There were boys with dreads on skateboards passing by and young people with instruments in cases. We commented on how the secret service was recruiting them younger and younger these days. This is how we pleasantly passed the afternoon.
04/11/10
Wow, you should see the bathroom to this little room we have. It's all in sky blue tile. Only in Portugal! Hot water, huge tub. I'm in heaven. We'll just live in it, forget the bed room.
We had moved to the central plaza because we were aware that our room must be a dead zone for phones. We couldn't afford to miss any more calls. We watched the world go by. Lisbon is a busy place with lots of things going on, little dramas all around. Emergency vehicles with loud sirens, homeless people begging, tourist buses with open upper decks going by and lots of style. Everybody wares the latest fashions. I guess Europe is where they come from, so if you want to know what will show up in the US next season, see it here first.
Fatima called about 7:30 and picked us up in front of the train station. Her husband, Manual was with her. They took us on an unexpected tour of Old Lisbon by night. We ended up at a little restaurant Called Va E Volte. They treated us to a dinner of Pulpo, (Polvo in Portuguese) and blackened pork. Then we walked to a point over the city and admired the lighted monuments and cathedrals. It was a different Lisbon than we'd seen all day. We got to see it through the eyes of people who love Lisbon.
They took us to their house, a cozy place with mementos of their trips to 5 continents. They are very interesting people! We slept in their children's rooms, since their children are both grow up. Good sleep.
04/12/10
Today Fatima dropped us off at the train station and we went to Sintra, a village that had come highly recommended. On the train we chatted with a woman who spoke good English. When she got to her stop she said, "Never change, you're perfect the way you are". Wow, such an unexpected compliment. I have changed though. I know it will be a challenge to keep what I've learned with me when I get home and back to a familiar space. However, I am determined to keep what I have learned. I have learned that I am safe and rocked in the cradle of the universe. All I have to do is put an intention out into the universe, and I get what I need. It's so cool! Hopefully it will work when I get back.
Today we are ordinary tourists doing the tourist thing. We buy a ticket for a bus that stops at four popular points of interest. We got to a Moorish Castle from 800 AD. It was a long way to the top of a mountain and the bus dropped us off at the bottom, so today is a walking day. We climbed ancient stairs up and up.
Four years ago when we were in Paris I didn't climb all the way to the top of the Eiffel Tower. I stopped half way. I've always regretted that. So today I am determined not to give up until I can see from here to the sea at the very top of the highest turret of the castle. The steps are worn with the footfalls of many people through the ages. They are steep and clearly made for solders who have an ample stride. Not exactly standard modern rise. The wall was very tall, the steps are not regular and it is not railed.
I must admit that I stumbled and if I hadn't been holding Eric's hand I would be a stain on the mountain side for sure. These Moorish guys really build CASTLES! I kept climbing. The developing view was unbelievable! From every successive vantage point I could see more of the area below. It would be hard to sneak up on this castle without being seen. We wandered in and out of the rock ruins of rooms and towers, granaries and water storage. This castle was totally prepared for a siege of substantial length. Huge boulders were scattered along the mountain side. They just built them into the wall if they were in the path of the build.
On this sight there were signs of bronze age habitation. I guess being up high on the hill was a good place to be for any group who wanted to be safe over the millennia. The Moorish Castle was conquered by Dom(king)Afonso Henriques in 1147. That must have been something to see. I don't know how anyone could do it, it's such a formidable fortress. It was eerie to put my hand on the groves where the bowmen shot arrows at their enemies, foes exchanging places over time.
When I got to the very highest tower I could see all the way to the sea, waves crashing in white spray. I could see the town and all the surrounding towns clear to some mountains. It was a panoramic view that truly took my breath away. It felt very heady and powerful somehow. I could imagine how an arrogant leader full of himself could look out over what he controlled from this place and feel the power. It's enough to make a person feel invulnerable. But of course, they weren"t.
Oh, I forgot to tell you the best part. Across the street from the train station in Sintra was the first thrift store I had seen in Portugal. It was in business to raise money to care for street dogs. I was in my element. I got the last of the charms for my bracelet there and some great presents too. 7.50 Euro.
Then it was time to catch the train back to Lisbon. Fatima picked us up and made dinner for us. We got to meet her daughter who is an architect like her father. She had done the Camino by bike with her scout troupe when she was a teen. She was fun and the food was good. We had a great time our last night in Europe.
Saturday, April 10, 2010
Porches
Porches
04/02/10
In the evening at Portimão, Eric said that it was my turn to manifest a miracle. So, I got the old 2006 list of the SERVAS Portugal book and started calling anyone East or West of Faro. I had strikeouts four times before I called Tina. After explaining the difficulty getting hostels over the Easter weekend, and a little bit about ourselves, she said “You come and stay at my place!” Just like that. Cool!
Tina lives in Porches, a town West of Faro and East of Portimao. We caught a bus to Lagoa the nearest town to Porches with a bus running. There were no buses running to Porches on the holiday. Tina kindly came in her little yellow car to the bus station to pick us up. She took us to her beautiful house with, guess what?; an attached quest suite complete with bathroom, kitchen, hot water, cats, wind chimes and church bells that mark the hour and half hour. We collapsed in a heap and poured out our gratitude to her.
Not only has Tina fixed us some sumptuous food, she has invited us to stay as long as we like and come back and stay three months sometime. She has introduced us to her friends Luis and Julio, with whom we have eaten, gone to see the unbelievably amazing cliffs and caves on the beach were the teal water has eroded a labyrinth of holes and arches washing up on tiny private beaches and conspired to surprise Tina with a stepping stone Eric and I are making way down in the back of her garden in the sand.
She has taken us to see antique towns such as Sra. Da Rocha, Albufeira and Silvas, the capital of Algarve, which is the province or county that Porches is in. Her cats are cautious and don’t associate with us no mater how much we try to entice them. I think they don’t understand English. I said “kitty, kitty, kitty”. But they respond nicely to Tina’s loving voice in Portuguese. She has been loving and giving and we are amazed at our good fortune to find her.
Eric has counted the ways we could have missed meeting her. She is not a member of SERVAS anymore. She was only a member for one year in 2004. We had our old list from 2006 when we were in Europe before, and the list that was given us at that time was expired. So here in 2010 we call her and she is here for us. Double cool!
My confidence in life seems to be there under all the layers that have peeled away. I want to get home and enjoy my family, my farm and my dog. It’s been a journey for my soul. I want to burst into song. I know I’ll have to work to keep this feeling once I’m back in my own habitat. However, it just fell over me like a clean white sheet. I did it! I set my goal to walk farther than I’ve ever walked and I did it! I’ve meet the most wonderful friends and they seem to actually like me. I’m better than I thought I was in so many ways. I am strong and able and between Eric and I we did something really hard together. We had a lot of fun! We made lemonade out of lemons!
04/03/10
Today Tina took us to another beach where the Atlantic runs the gambit from deep teal to delicate light green. The waves lap gently without any big waves. The sun sparkled on the water and children played safely in the shallows. We walked in the sand and got our feet wet. It’s a pleasure I haven’t had for a while. So nice, so childish. Actually it does remind me of my small self who delighted in running in the waves at Zuma Beach, CA with my mother.
This is a special day for me. Two of my fantastic children came to me into this world on this day; Nic and Poe. I take a good part of this day to remember their births and there childhoods. I remember Poe’s chubby cheeks and Nic’s wispy, almost white hair. Poe always crawled over to eat the mud off our boots and Nic always wanted to be picked up. Oh what I would give to be back there again, snuggling with them, watching them at play. Each of them is so precious to me. Thank you Nic and Poe for choosing me to be your mother and giving me the most beautiful memories of two little boys.
04/04/10
Today is Easter Sunday. Tina made a grand lunch of grilled Salmon. It was crispy and so good. We ate at a mosaic table overlooking her sculpted garden that Julio designed for her. It was lovely and better than going to the procession that Tina says is beautiful but crowded. We talked of spiritual things. We walked in the extensive garden admiring the clever landscaping. It was a quiet day.
04/05/10
Today we must resolve a pressing problem, we have run out of Epsom salts (magnesium sulphate) about a week ago. It keeps my digestive system working uphill against the side effects of my blood pressure medications which tend to bring everything to a halt. We have looked for anything like Epsom salts in pharmacies and stores but with no success. So now I must take action. Tina took us to the local pharmacy. I told the Dr. there that I need “the atomic bomb of laxatives”. He prescribes and sells us the necessary formulations and explains the program. Eric and I dutifully go home and carry out the dastardly deed. I discover it’s really not so bad, and Voila! I am cured. I am ready for a wonderful afternoon with Tina in the Town of Silves.
Silves is the capital of Algrave. It is a charming place of ancient structures and winding narrow roads, my favourite. I love to get lost walking the twisting roads of an ancient town. We see white and black Storks on their huge nest atop a chimney. They put on a dance, clacking their beaks and stretching their wing spans for us. There is an ancient bridge with fish of all sizes swimming in the clear water. There is a statue of the King of Portugal who took Silves back from the Moores in the 1100’s. The architecture has a Moorish influence with turrets and domes. It is enchanting.
I found a shop of old things and bought medals for my bracelet. I’m in heaven.
We saw a long low wall done by an artist all in mosaic. I sat on it, it was delightful to look at and a huge project.
We visit the cemetery where Tina’s parents are buried. There is a beautiful mosaic pot on one of the graves and I take a closer look. I got the idea to make a mosaic stepping stone for Tina and start to look for the elements I will need.
Coming back the air is full of the sweet scent of the orange groves in bloom as well as the smell of orange peels roasting in the sun. So intoxicating! We have chosen the best time to visit the Algrave, Spring with all the flowers just beginning to bloom. Later Tina says it will all be brown. I’m glad I won’t see it.
Eric and I spend the evening texting all the friends we have made, telling them where we are and not to worry. It’s fun, some of them text back. It’s like a virtual party.
04/06/10
Today we dug the sand and got the cement from the garage where Julio said it would be. We are going to make Tina’s surprise when she goes to pick her sister up at the airport. I went looking for some pieces of tile and found some but mostly terracotta.
Tina invited us to lunch with Luis and Julio. It was fun. Eric had Mackerel and I had short ribs. We helped Tina by Eric sanding and later will varnish her hot tub and I weeded between the stones of her patio. Then she asked us over to her porch for tea.
When Luis was here he brought some pictures he had taken. We got to choose more than one if we liked. We took three of bright flowers of course. It was a calm day, yet I’m feeling antsy. I know that our time here is running out. Eric and I are beginning to make plans to return to Lisbon where our flight will take us home to our loved ones. We have definitely had a deep culture experience.
Fermin texted us and wants to come down and bring his girlfriend Allison. We would love to meet the girl we have heard so much about. He writes back that he doesn’t know when she will be ready, she is trying to take her driving test.
Conny replied to our text message that she feels that meeting us was the reason she came on the Camino. Wow!
Anna got back to us and said that Anton if proud to have an American Grandma. So sweet!
04/07/10
Today was sunny as have been all the days we have been in Porches. Eric finished varnishing the hot tub and I will never be able to finish the weeding. I just got pretty far on the edge that curves around. Tina took us to town and Eric bought another memory chip for his camera. I got a three charm set that I had seen before and thought about it a long time. No impulse buying for me.
Then when Tina went to pick up her sister, we flew into action. We hauled all the stuff down the garden way to the back where hopefully Tina rarely goes. We cut a simi-oval shape in the earth and flattened it to be our mold. I arranged the pieces of tile in a swirl with a rock shaped like a heart in the middle and then following the spiral the little tile path leads to a green chunk of glass. The theme is “From our house to yours”. The sun is hot and we cast it in a sunny place. I hope it will dry by the time we have to leave. We will have to dig it out of the hardened earth to fetch it up. Then, depending on the services, I may have to smooth it out with grout. I hope I have time. If not, Julio may have to finish our surprise.
Then we put everything away and acted like we’d been lounging around our room when she got back. Hope she didn’t notice how sweaty and out of breath we were. She did notice, however that the garage door had been closed. She says that she never quite closes it. But she thought that Julio had been in the garage. Neat!
We passed the evening looking at Eric’s pictures recalling every step of the way of our pilgrimage. We even know exactly how far we were from Santiago because it is written on the markers.
Then we watched English TV. Every night at 9:30 there is a National Geographic special with Portuguese subtitles. We have gotten in the habit of tuning in. The church bells tell us when by ringing on the house and the half hour. It’s a little bit of home.
04/08/10
Today is another special day, the day Sloan was born. I love you so much, sweet daughter of mine. You are a joy to me and I remember how when you came into this world you were the most beautiful baby that I could imagine. I just held you and looked at your glowing face for hours. What a special person you have been in my life. You have taught me so much. How can I ever thank you enough for coming to me.
I went out and tested the stepping stone. It’s hardening, but I can still press down on the cement. So I will check at the end of the day.
Also today Luis and Julio invited us to a big lunch at a house that Julio restored from ruin into a fantastic, gorgeous house and garden. It is the last day here for a couple from Germany who have been renting it. They made Chiopino, two different kinds. Both with clams, shrimp and potatoes, then one had pork pieces and the other had salmon. Tina is a vegetarian and eats fish, but not meat. The sweet potatoes were a special taste surprise for me and they were quite good. There were a couple of other friends at lunch, a Portuguese man named Ludgero and another man, Marcel from Switzerland. So there was lively conversation in three languages around the table. It was all a delight in sounds, tastes, and new people. The frogs in the pond near the patio croaked in loud objection to the disturbance of their usually quiet surroundings.
Julio and Luis had a surprise for me. Yesterday they collected tile pieces while on an expedition to find whole tiles for his garden projects. They gave me a bag of broken tiles to die for. I’m so excited. Now I have to buy a suit case and carry my treasures on the plane. But what the heck. I’m going to make the most beautiful garden in my yard this summer!
We contacted our new friend in Lisbon, Fatima and she said that we can come Sunday afternoon. She also said that she got together with Delphina and got our bag we left there, so we don’t have to spend time doing that. That’s good.
So Eric and I are thinking of visiting some fellow pilgrims we met at Santiago on our way back to Lisbon. We have to email them and give them our phone number. So, tomorrow we will buy tickets and we’ll say good bye to our new friends. But we’ll keep in touch!
04/09/10
Today we are preparing to leave. We are unpacking and repacking our back packs to get rid of anything ounces we don’t need. Eric suggested a new way to pack so we could to take home the tile Julio and Luis gave me without having to buy a small carry-on bag with wheels. That’s OK with me, it is a treasure I can’t leave. Eric and I are both dizzy and light headed today. We don’t know why. My blood pressure is great, maybe even a little on the low side, maybe that’s it. We both took an Echinacea just in case. We have had little illness on the trip to worry about. It’s been a “healthy experience”.
Luis and Julio stopped buy and gave me a goodbye present. It’s a cute little pot made in ’89 with traditional painting on it. It will be a challenge to get it home in one piece, but I will do my best.
When Eric got back from walking to the hotel to get the bus schedule, we unearthed the stepping stone. We wish we hadn’t put so much sand and wish we’d put more cement, but it turned out OK. We brushed it off and left on the porch to surprise Tina in the morning. We feel done here.
Eric talked to Rafael, our fellow pilgrim he met in Santiago and we are going to try to get together with him and his girlfriend tomorrow. They live on the other side of the water from Lisbon. So maybe we will see some place we didn’t get to see last time we were there.
Off to Lisbon, finally!
04/02/10
In the evening at Portimão, Eric said that it was my turn to manifest a miracle. So, I got the old 2006 list of the SERVAS Portugal book and started calling anyone East or West of Faro. I had strikeouts four times before I called Tina. After explaining the difficulty getting hostels over the Easter weekend, and a little bit about ourselves, she said “You come and stay at my place!” Just like that. Cool!
Tina lives in Porches, a town West of Faro and East of Portimao. We caught a bus to Lagoa the nearest town to Porches with a bus running. There were no buses running to Porches on the holiday. Tina kindly came in her little yellow car to the bus station to pick us up. She took us to her beautiful house with, guess what?; an attached quest suite complete with bathroom, kitchen, hot water, cats, wind chimes and church bells that mark the hour and half hour. We collapsed in a heap and poured out our gratitude to her.
Not only has Tina fixed us some sumptuous food, she has invited us to stay as long as we like and come back and stay three months sometime. She has introduced us to her friends Luis and Julio, with whom we have eaten, gone to see the unbelievably amazing cliffs and caves on the beach were the teal water has eroded a labyrinth of holes and arches washing up on tiny private beaches and conspired to surprise Tina with a stepping stone Eric and I are making way down in the back of her garden in the sand.
She has taken us to see antique towns such as Sra. Da Rocha, Albufeira and Silvas, the capital of Algarve, which is the province or county that Porches is in. Her cats are cautious and don’t associate with us no mater how much we try to entice them. I think they don’t understand English. I said “kitty, kitty, kitty”. But they respond nicely to Tina’s loving voice in Portuguese. She has been loving and giving and we are amazed at our good fortune to find her.
Eric has counted the ways we could have missed meeting her. She is not a member of SERVAS anymore. She was only a member for one year in 2004. We had our old list from 2006 when we were in Europe before, and the list that was given us at that time was expired. So here in 2010 we call her and she is here for us. Double cool!
My confidence in life seems to be there under all the layers that have peeled away. I want to get home and enjoy my family, my farm and my dog. It’s been a journey for my soul. I want to burst into song. I know I’ll have to work to keep this feeling once I’m back in my own habitat. However, it just fell over me like a clean white sheet. I did it! I set my goal to walk farther than I’ve ever walked and I did it! I’ve meet the most wonderful friends and they seem to actually like me. I’m better than I thought I was in so many ways. I am strong and able and between Eric and I we did something really hard together. We had a lot of fun! We made lemonade out of lemons!
04/03/10
Today Tina took us to another beach where the Atlantic runs the gambit from deep teal to delicate light green. The waves lap gently without any big waves. The sun sparkled on the water and children played safely in the shallows. We walked in the sand and got our feet wet. It’s a pleasure I haven’t had for a while. So nice, so childish. Actually it does remind me of my small self who delighted in running in the waves at Zuma Beach, CA with my mother.
This is a special day for me. Two of my fantastic children came to me into this world on this day; Nic and Poe. I take a good part of this day to remember their births and there childhoods. I remember Poe’s chubby cheeks and Nic’s wispy, almost white hair. Poe always crawled over to eat the mud off our boots and Nic always wanted to be picked up. Oh what I would give to be back there again, snuggling with them, watching them at play. Each of them is so precious to me. Thank you Nic and Poe for choosing me to be your mother and giving me the most beautiful memories of two little boys.
04/04/10
Today is Easter Sunday. Tina made a grand lunch of grilled Salmon. It was crispy and so good. We ate at a mosaic table overlooking her sculpted garden that Julio designed for her. It was lovely and better than going to the procession that Tina says is beautiful but crowded. We talked of spiritual things. We walked in the extensive garden admiring the clever landscaping. It was a quiet day.
04/05/10
Today we must resolve a pressing problem, we have run out of Epsom salts (magnesium sulphate) about a week ago. It keeps my digestive system working uphill against the side effects of my blood pressure medications which tend to bring everything to a halt. We have looked for anything like Epsom salts in pharmacies and stores but with no success. So now I must take action. Tina took us to the local pharmacy. I told the Dr. there that I need “the atomic bomb of laxatives”. He prescribes and sells us the necessary formulations and explains the program. Eric and I dutifully go home and carry out the dastardly deed. I discover it’s really not so bad, and Voila! I am cured. I am ready for a wonderful afternoon with Tina in the Town of Silves.
Silves is the capital of Algrave. It is a charming place of ancient structures and winding narrow roads, my favourite. I love to get lost walking the twisting roads of an ancient town. We see white and black Storks on their huge nest atop a chimney. They put on a dance, clacking their beaks and stretching their wing spans for us. There is an ancient bridge with fish of all sizes swimming in the clear water. There is a statue of the King of Portugal who took Silves back from the Moores in the 1100’s. The architecture has a Moorish influence with turrets and domes. It is enchanting.
I found a shop of old things and bought medals for my bracelet. I’m in heaven.
We saw a long low wall done by an artist all in mosaic. I sat on it, it was delightful to look at and a huge project.
We visit the cemetery where Tina’s parents are buried. There is a beautiful mosaic pot on one of the graves and I take a closer look. I got the idea to make a mosaic stepping stone for Tina and start to look for the elements I will need.
Coming back the air is full of the sweet scent of the orange groves in bloom as well as the smell of orange peels roasting in the sun. So intoxicating! We have chosen the best time to visit the Algrave, Spring with all the flowers just beginning to bloom. Later Tina says it will all be brown. I’m glad I won’t see it.
Eric and I spend the evening texting all the friends we have made, telling them where we are and not to worry. It’s fun, some of them text back. It’s like a virtual party.
04/06/10
Today we dug the sand and got the cement from the garage where Julio said it would be. We are going to make Tina’s surprise when she goes to pick her sister up at the airport. I went looking for some pieces of tile and found some but mostly terracotta.
Tina invited us to lunch with Luis and Julio. It was fun. Eric had Mackerel and I had short ribs. We helped Tina by Eric sanding and later will varnish her hot tub and I weeded between the stones of her patio. Then she asked us over to her porch for tea.
When Luis was here he brought some pictures he had taken. We got to choose more than one if we liked. We took three of bright flowers of course. It was a calm day, yet I’m feeling antsy. I know that our time here is running out. Eric and I are beginning to make plans to return to Lisbon where our flight will take us home to our loved ones. We have definitely had a deep culture experience.
Fermin texted us and wants to come down and bring his girlfriend Allison. We would love to meet the girl we have heard so much about. He writes back that he doesn’t know when she will be ready, she is trying to take her driving test.
Conny replied to our text message that she feels that meeting us was the reason she came on the Camino. Wow!
Anna got back to us and said that Anton if proud to have an American Grandma. So sweet!
04/07/10
Today was sunny as have been all the days we have been in Porches. Eric finished varnishing the hot tub and I will never be able to finish the weeding. I just got pretty far on the edge that curves around. Tina took us to town and Eric bought another memory chip for his camera. I got a three charm set that I had seen before and thought about it a long time. No impulse buying for me.
Then when Tina went to pick up her sister, we flew into action. We hauled all the stuff down the garden way to the back where hopefully Tina rarely goes. We cut a simi-oval shape in the earth and flattened it to be our mold. I arranged the pieces of tile in a swirl with a rock shaped like a heart in the middle and then following the spiral the little tile path leads to a green chunk of glass. The theme is “From our house to yours”. The sun is hot and we cast it in a sunny place. I hope it will dry by the time we have to leave. We will have to dig it out of the hardened earth to fetch it up. Then, depending on the services, I may have to smooth it out with grout. I hope I have time. If not, Julio may have to finish our surprise.
Then we put everything away and acted like we’d been lounging around our room when she got back. Hope she didn’t notice how sweaty and out of breath we were. She did notice, however that the garage door had been closed. She says that she never quite closes it. But she thought that Julio had been in the garage. Neat!
We passed the evening looking at Eric’s pictures recalling every step of the way of our pilgrimage. We even know exactly how far we were from Santiago because it is written on the markers.
Then we watched English TV. Every night at 9:30 there is a National Geographic special with Portuguese subtitles. We have gotten in the habit of tuning in. The church bells tell us when by ringing on the house and the half hour. It’s a little bit of home.
04/08/10
Today is another special day, the day Sloan was born. I love you so much, sweet daughter of mine. You are a joy to me and I remember how when you came into this world you were the most beautiful baby that I could imagine. I just held you and looked at your glowing face for hours. What a special person you have been in my life. You have taught me so much. How can I ever thank you enough for coming to me.
I went out and tested the stepping stone. It’s hardening, but I can still press down on the cement. So I will check at the end of the day.
Also today Luis and Julio invited us to a big lunch at a house that Julio restored from ruin into a fantastic, gorgeous house and garden. It is the last day here for a couple from Germany who have been renting it. They made Chiopino, two different kinds. Both with clams, shrimp and potatoes, then one had pork pieces and the other had salmon. Tina is a vegetarian and eats fish, but not meat. The sweet potatoes were a special taste surprise for me and they were quite good. There were a couple of other friends at lunch, a Portuguese man named Ludgero and another man, Marcel from Switzerland. So there was lively conversation in three languages around the table. It was all a delight in sounds, tastes, and new people. The frogs in the pond near the patio croaked in loud objection to the disturbance of their usually quiet surroundings.
Julio and Luis had a surprise for me. Yesterday they collected tile pieces while on an expedition to find whole tiles for his garden projects. They gave me a bag of broken tiles to die for. I’m so excited. Now I have to buy a suit case and carry my treasures on the plane. But what the heck. I’m going to make the most beautiful garden in my yard this summer!
We contacted our new friend in Lisbon, Fatima and she said that we can come Sunday afternoon. She also said that she got together with Delphina and got our bag we left there, so we don’t have to spend time doing that. That’s good.
So Eric and I are thinking of visiting some fellow pilgrims we met at Santiago on our way back to Lisbon. We have to email them and give them our phone number. So, tomorrow we will buy tickets and we’ll say good bye to our new friends. But we’ll keep in touch!
04/09/10
Today we are preparing to leave. We are unpacking and repacking our back packs to get rid of anything ounces we don’t need. Eric suggested a new way to pack so we could to take home the tile Julio and Luis gave me without having to buy a small carry-on bag with wheels. That’s OK with me, it is a treasure I can’t leave. Eric and I are both dizzy and light headed today. We don’t know why. My blood pressure is great, maybe even a little on the low side, maybe that’s it. We both took an Echinacea just in case. We have had little illness on the trip to worry about. It’s been a “healthy experience”.
Luis and Julio stopped buy and gave me a goodbye present. It’s a cute little pot made in ’89 with traditional painting on it. It will be a challenge to get it home in one piece, but I will do my best.
When Eric got back from walking to the hotel to get the bus schedule, we unearthed the stepping stone. We wish we hadn’t put so much sand and wish we’d put more cement, but it turned out OK. We brushed it off and left on the porch to surprise Tina in the morning. We feel done here.
Eric talked to Rafael, our fellow pilgrim he met in Santiago and we are going to try to get together with him and his girlfriend tomorrow. They live on the other side of the water from Lisbon. So maybe we will see some place we didn’t get to see last time we were there.
Off to Lisbon, finally!
Portimão
Portimão
Today we hopped a train from Lisbon to Faro, a town on the southern coast of Portugal. We only saw the train station in Faro because we had to catch another train to Portimao. The only reason we chose Portimao was because there was a room available there in a hostel. In other words, it was chosen for us.
We passed villages and cities. The landscape changed from tall pines and Eucalyptus to shorter, more squat long needle evergreens of some kind with distinctly rounded profiles and olive trees. We passed fragrant orange orchards cotton clouds shining in the sunlight. full of blossoms. There were multicoloured bee hives stacked in the distance. The dirt turned from tan to bright orange, deep rust and finally to pale sand.
The land flattened out and burst into patches of white and yellow daisies. Here and there, under the orange trees were splashes of azure, magenta and cayenne where spring had painted with her brush. The sky was blue with a few
We stepped off the train into a small station with blue and white tile pictures of it’s history. After inquiry, we discovered that our goal was far up the hill towards a water tower that cold be seen in the distance.
I unzipped the lower leg of my pants for the first time in the balmy air and shouldered my pack for the long walk up hill. I felt light and uplifted, agile and able.
We arrived in a town of white shapely building bleached in the sun. Across the water I know that there is the whole continent of Africa. I want to hop a boat and go to see Cathy in Kenya, but Eric reminds me that it is more than 4000 km away. Africa is a big place.
Our room was very nice, room for both of us, private bathroom and a little porch all our own. I took the opportunity to lie on a lawn chair in the evening light and listen to the sweet birds sing in the palm trees. My mind turned to home and I miss everyone so much. It is a strange feeling to try and enjoy the here and now, yet being aware that half way around the world there are people I love living their lives and I can’t touch them or hug them or see their glowing faces.
I look forward to seeing your faces. I think I will never look at you in the same way again. Now I have so much more appreciation of each of you, the color of your eyes, each nose, each chin, each hand, the way each one of you speak, your gestures and your concerns. You are precious to me and I miss you so much. How wonderful it will be when I see you again. I want to hold you in my arms and kiss your cheek. I want to be silent and listen to the song of your voice. I want to touch your wrist and feel your heart beat and let the gratefulness that you are alive and in my life wash over me and saturate my senses.
This a nice room but the shower leaked. I mean really leaked! It has it’s own enclosure, but the seal was hanging limply over the glass. When we got out, there was water all over the bathroom floor, running under the door into the front room and under the door to the hall outside the room. Wow, we have never seen such a thing. We need to run out and put down a towel to stop the flow of water, but we are both in our birthday suits. The manager needs to be fetched, things need to be mopped up, but we are both standing in this misplaced pool in our birthday suits. Eric hopped around, managed to half dress and run to the office. She brings a mop that is woefully inadequate for the job and the damage control begins. Now we try to figure our what to do next, we can’t stay here another night.
Off to?
Today we hopped a train from Lisbon to Faro, a town on the southern coast of Portugal. We only saw the train station in Faro because we had to catch another train to Portimao. The only reason we chose Portimao was because there was a room available there in a hostel. In other words, it was chosen for us.
We passed villages and cities. The landscape changed from tall pines and Eucalyptus to shorter, more squat long needle evergreens of some kind with distinctly rounded profiles and olive trees. We passed fragrant orange orchards cotton clouds shining in the sunlight. full of blossoms. There were multicoloured bee hives stacked in the distance. The dirt turned from tan to bright orange, deep rust and finally to pale sand.
The land flattened out and burst into patches of white and yellow daisies. Here and there, under the orange trees were splashes of azure, magenta and cayenne where spring had painted with her brush. The sky was blue with a few
We stepped off the train into a small station with blue and white tile pictures of it’s history. After inquiry, we discovered that our goal was far up the hill towards a water tower that cold be seen in the distance.
I unzipped the lower leg of my pants for the first time in the balmy air and shouldered my pack for the long walk up hill. I felt light and uplifted, agile and able.
We arrived in a town of white shapely building bleached in the sun. Across the water I know that there is the whole continent of Africa. I want to hop a boat and go to see Cathy in Kenya, but Eric reminds me that it is more than 4000 km away. Africa is a big place.
Our room was very nice, room for both of us, private bathroom and a little porch all our own. I took the opportunity to lie on a lawn chair in the evening light and listen to the sweet birds sing in the palm trees. My mind turned to home and I miss everyone so much. It is a strange feeling to try and enjoy the here and now, yet being aware that half way around the world there are people I love living their lives and I can’t touch them or hug them or see their glowing faces.
I look forward to seeing your faces. I think I will never look at you in the same way again. Now I have so much more appreciation of each of you, the color of your eyes, each nose, each chin, each hand, the way each one of you speak, your gestures and your concerns. You are precious to me and I miss you so much. How wonderful it will be when I see you again. I want to hold you in my arms and kiss your cheek. I want to be silent and listen to the song of your voice. I want to touch your wrist and feel your heart beat and let the gratefulness that you are alive and in my life wash over me and saturate my senses.
This a nice room but the shower leaked. I mean really leaked! It has it’s own enclosure, but the seal was hanging limply over the glass. When we got out, there was water all over the bathroom floor, running under the door into the front room and under the door to the hall outside the room. Wow, we have never seen such a thing. We need to run out and put down a towel to stop the flow of water, but we are both in our birthday suits. The manager needs to be fetched, things need to be mopped up, but we are both standing in this misplaced pool in our birthday suits. Eric hopped around, managed to half dress and run to the office. She brings a mop that is woefully inadequate for the job and the damage control begins. Now we try to figure our what to do next, we can’t stay here another night.
Off to?
Lisbon, again
Lisbon, again
04/01/10
Fermin came again and picked us up in Vigo. He took us to get our stuff we had left in Romarigaes. I left a hacky sack on the table for Francisco. He and I had watched a video of the world Champion Hacky Sacker when we had stayed with them before.
Even though it seemed a long way when we were walking, all these places we had been were actually fairly close together by car. Fermin insisted on making sure that we got where we needed to go. We hoped to catch a train from Ponte de Lima to Lisbon, however there was no train there. So Fermin drove us to Viana do Castelo. We tried to give him money for gas, but he wouldn’t take it. He said we would do the same for him if he was in our country.
We checked in with Duarte and Teressa who happened to be home for lunch at the time we arrived. They said that if it was a long wait for the train to come back and wait with them. However, when we got to the train, we had only a few minutes until it left. So we hugged and kissed Fermin on both cheeks and were gone.
The hostel in Lisbon was busy, full and not such a nice place to be. Eric and I had to sleep in separate rooms. It was just before the Easter weekend and someone told us that all the Spanish come to Portugal for their week long holiday. The Portuguese only get three days for the holiday. It was party time in the hostel. We began to worry that there wouldn’t be many accommodations available when we got to the south of Portugal where it’s sunny and warm and surly everybody would be going there.
Eric checked with the clerk and reserved a room in the only town on the southern coast where one was available; Portimao.
So after a nights sleep, we’re off to Portimao!
04/01/10
Fermin came again and picked us up in Vigo. He took us to get our stuff we had left in Romarigaes. I left a hacky sack on the table for Francisco. He and I had watched a video of the world Champion Hacky Sacker when we had stayed with them before.
Even though it seemed a long way when we were walking, all these places we had been were actually fairly close together by car. Fermin insisted on making sure that we got where we needed to go. We hoped to catch a train from Ponte de Lima to Lisbon, however there was no train there. So Fermin drove us to Viana do Castelo. We tried to give him money for gas, but he wouldn’t take it. He said we would do the same for him if he was in our country.
We checked in with Duarte and Teressa who happened to be home for lunch at the time we arrived. They said that if it was a long wait for the train to come back and wait with them. However, when we got to the train, we had only a few minutes until it left. So we hugged and kissed Fermin on both cheeks and were gone.
The hostel in Lisbon was busy, full and not such a nice place to be. Eric and I had to sleep in separate rooms. It was just before the Easter weekend and someone told us that all the Spanish come to Portugal for their week long holiday. The Portuguese only get three days for the holiday. It was party time in the hostel. We began to worry that there wouldn’t be many accommodations available when we got to the south of Portugal where it’s sunny and warm and surly everybody would be going there.
Eric checked with the clerk and reserved a room in the only town on the southern coast where one was available; Portimao.
So after a nights sleep, we’re off to Portimao!
Vigo
Vigo
Today our fellow pilgrim, Fermin from Vigo, came to pick us up at Santiago and took us for a tour along the coast and to some of his favourite beachs. He took us to an island with expansive houses and other places he had enjoyed. It was raining really hard so it wasn’t as nice as it could have been if we had been able to walk. However, it was beautiful even in the rain and we had a good time driving to Vigo with Fermin. He taught himself English and he said we should speak English as much as possible to give him practice. However, in the end mostly Spanish was spoken so I was silent. Good for me. I should have taken advantage of the fact that Eric speaks Spanish to learn the language many years ago. Now I listen a lot and I’m getting the gist of things.
Fermin helped us find a pensionas in the old town and said goodbye. Ana from Cuntis, who was at her mother’s in Vigo with Anton, texted us and we met her in the big central mall. We walked the streets and since she was raised in
Vigo, she told us the history of buildings and their years of origin and stories about the people who had lived there. It became evening and had stopped raining so we were content to walk the streets by lamp light. We walked around plazas where Romans had walked. We saw the big port and the huge cargo ships. We went by a children’s book store and she said that they had the best books and her friend worked there.
Anton worked up an appetite by climbing up and jumping down each and every bench or low wall in our path. Finally we strolled into a favourite cafe of Ana’s and Anton’s. The waiter knew them and kept up antics for Anton. I folded Anton a paper hat out of napkins. He sang a song about the yummy moon made of sugar and honey and fruit. Many animals (thus many verses) tried to lick the moon. The only one to succeed was the mouse. So that’s why the moon looks like mouse cheese. It was so cute. He just kept singing and singing all the verses in perfect Galatian which is distinct from Spanish. He knows both languages at age 3. He raised his chin and sang to the ceiling. It was so endearing. Tears came to my eyes. What a little man, so mature, yet so sweet. I wanted to give him a hug, but of course I would have needed his permission.
Anton’s favourite dish is Pulpo. He couldn’t wait for it to be served. He was so happy to take his toothpick and stab the pieces and put them on his plate. Then Ana would cut them up and he gobbled them down. Ana also eats fast and good quantities for being such a small, thin person. I gave him a little compass on a wristband as a present. Eric gave him an American penny. He was very happy with his gifts. Ana said that Alberto, Anton’s father, had a coin collection. So now Anton had his first coin for his own collection.
We all got along so well. I asked if I could be Anton’s American Grandma.
03/30/10
Still in Vigo, we went out and wandered around the streets that Ana had shown us the night before. We could see the ocean and again the huge boats carrying cargo containers coming and going, passing each other. Funny, I will never again be able to look at cargo containers and not start figuring out the layout of a possible house in my head.
We stood in the plaza and watched the Spanish people interact. Everyone was talking at once. They stood in little groups in animated conversation while their children ran around and played. They were all so very stylish and the children were all well equipped with scooters, butterfly wings and tiny doll strollers. The children had the cutest little clothes. Ancient buildings and a cathedral were their casual backdrop. The stones under their feet had been trodden by Roman feet and laid by Roman hands. They relaxed in the outdoor cafes under awnings, sipping espresso from tiny cups. I was enchanted by the scene. The sky was blue with voluminous clouds all shades of white and grey. The rain seemed inevitable but they didn’t let that dampen their spirits. They walked their dogs and chattered like birds.
We bought some bread, orange juice and chocolate, just the essentials. We walked past the book store where Ana had told us her friend worked. We went in. It was nearly lunch time, about 2:00 PM. We met Ana’s friend whose name was Sandra. I bought one of the most creative pop-out books I’ve ever seen. She locked the shop door and asked us to walk with her to her bus. At the very last opportunity to exchange one more bit of information, she said that the people who owned the book shop published children’s books. I was so excited! I want to publish some children’s books. She showed us the web address and hopped on the bus. We waved and she was gone.
We spent the night in the same place as the night before. It had a loose board in the floor and every time I stepped on it it let out a noise that sounded like the shot of a gun. It never failed to startle me.
Today our fellow pilgrim, Fermin from Vigo, came to pick us up at Santiago and took us for a tour along the coast and to some of his favourite beachs. He took us to an island with expansive houses and other places he had enjoyed. It was raining really hard so it wasn’t as nice as it could have been if we had been able to walk. However, it was beautiful even in the rain and we had a good time driving to Vigo with Fermin. He taught himself English and he said we should speak English as much as possible to give him practice. However, in the end mostly Spanish was spoken so I was silent. Good for me. I should have taken advantage of the fact that Eric speaks Spanish to learn the language many years ago. Now I listen a lot and I’m getting the gist of things.
Fermin helped us find a pensionas in the old town and said goodbye. Ana from Cuntis, who was at her mother’s in Vigo with Anton, texted us and we met her in the big central mall. We walked the streets and since she was raised in
Vigo, she told us the history of buildings and their years of origin and stories about the people who had lived there. It became evening and had stopped raining so we were content to walk the streets by lamp light. We walked around plazas where Romans had walked. We saw the big port and the huge cargo ships. We went by a children’s book store and she said that they had the best books and her friend worked there.
Anton worked up an appetite by climbing up and jumping down each and every bench or low wall in our path. Finally we strolled into a favourite cafe of Ana’s and Anton’s. The waiter knew them and kept up antics for Anton. I folded Anton a paper hat out of napkins. He sang a song about the yummy moon made of sugar and honey and fruit. Many animals (thus many verses) tried to lick the moon. The only one to succeed was the mouse. So that’s why the moon looks like mouse cheese. It was so cute. He just kept singing and singing all the verses in perfect Galatian which is distinct from Spanish. He knows both languages at age 3. He raised his chin and sang to the ceiling. It was so endearing. Tears came to my eyes. What a little man, so mature, yet so sweet. I wanted to give him a hug, but of course I would have needed his permission.
Anton’s favourite dish is Pulpo. He couldn’t wait for it to be served. He was so happy to take his toothpick and stab the pieces and put them on his plate. Then Ana would cut them up and he gobbled them down. Ana also eats fast and good quantities for being such a small, thin person. I gave him a little compass on a wristband as a present. Eric gave him an American penny. He was very happy with his gifts. Ana said that Alberto, Anton’s father, had a coin collection. So now Anton had his first coin for his own collection.
We all got along so well. I asked if I could be Anton’s American Grandma.
03/30/10
Still in Vigo, we went out and wandered around the streets that Ana had shown us the night before. We could see the ocean and again the huge boats carrying cargo containers coming and going, passing each other. Funny, I will never again be able to look at cargo containers and not start figuring out the layout of a possible house in my head.
We stood in the plaza and watched the Spanish people interact. Everyone was talking at once. They stood in little groups in animated conversation while their children ran around and played. They were all so very stylish and the children were all well equipped with scooters, butterfly wings and tiny doll strollers. The children had the cutest little clothes. Ancient buildings and a cathedral were their casual backdrop. The stones under their feet had been trodden by Roman feet and laid by Roman hands. They relaxed in the outdoor cafes under awnings, sipping espresso from tiny cups. I was enchanted by the scene. The sky was blue with voluminous clouds all shades of white and grey. The rain seemed inevitable but they didn’t let that dampen their spirits. They walked their dogs and chattered like birds.
We bought some bread, orange juice and chocolate, just the essentials. We walked past the book store where Ana had told us her friend worked. We went in. It was nearly lunch time, about 2:00 PM. We met Ana’s friend whose name was Sandra. I bought one of the most creative pop-out books I’ve ever seen. She locked the shop door and asked us to walk with her to her bus. At the very last opportunity to exchange one more bit of information, she said that the people who owned the book shop published children’s books. I was so excited! I want to publish some children’s books. She showed us the web address and hopped on the bus. We waved and she was gone.
We spent the night in the same place as the night before. It had a loose board in the floor and every time I stepped on it it let out a noise that sounded like the shot of a gun. It never failed to startle me.
More Santiago
Well, remember the man who stopped Eric because he thought he knew him? It turned out that we saw that man again when we came down from the rock in little café. He was sitting with his wife and another couple. We had already found Conny after we came down, and the group including the man, were from Germany and they all started talking German right away. I thought that they knew Conny before. However, later Conny told me that she had never met them until that moment. Well, the man who had thought he recognized Eric looked a lot like Shawn Conery, of 007 fame as well as many other movies. He was younger and thinner, but definitely looked like Mr. Conery. He had a black coat with a hood and when he put up the hood, he definitely looked like the actor. We joked about how he must get people saying that he looks like Shawn Conery all the time. And that was true, he did. His wife insisted that he was Shawn Conery and stuck to the story throughout. Eric took my picture with this Conery look-alike. And we sat for a while talking in broken sentences and body language until the bus came. Then we all got on and we never saw him again.
03/28/10
We are still at Santiago. We went into town on the bus and did some Internet and got some groceries. Conny was doing the pilgrim’s last part, hugging the stature of St. James, getting her certificate and enjoying the church. We bought three kinds of empanadas; fish, chicken and pulpo. We all got back at about the same time and we asked Conny if she had eaten pulpo yet. She said she had gone to McDonalds and had a New York Crispy Burger. We said that she had to try octopus, and we shared our empanadas with her. Once she got over the idea of eating suction cups, had to admit that it was tender and tasty. Even better than the NY Crispy Burger? She never said.
She did say that she thought that part of the reason she came on the Camino was to meet us. It was really nice. We have made a another friend. She encouraged us to come to Austria and ski. We now have an invitation to Austria. We’ll keep in touch. First we have to get income to pay for this trip. We all stayed one more night at San Lozero albergue. We have decided to go south to the very coast of Portugal. Tomorrow Ferman is coming to pick up us and take us to Vigo, the largest city in Glacia.
Off to Vigo!
03/28/10
We are still at Santiago. We went into town on the bus and did some Internet and got some groceries. Conny was doing the pilgrim’s last part, hugging the stature of St. James, getting her certificate and enjoying the church. We bought three kinds of empanadas; fish, chicken and pulpo. We all got back at about the same time and we asked Conny if she had eaten pulpo yet. She said she had gone to McDonalds and had a New York Crispy Burger. We said that she had to try octopus, and we shared our empanadas with her. Once she got over the idea of eating suction cups, had to admit that it was tender and tasty. Even better than the NY Crispy Burger? She never said.
She did say that she thought that part of the reason she came on the Camino was to meet us. It was really nice. We have made a another friend. She encouraged us to come to Austria and ski. We now have an invitation to Austria. We’ll keep in touch. First we have to get income to pay for this trip. We all stayed one more night at San Lozero albergue. We have decided to go south to the very coast of Portugal. Tomorrow Ferman is coming to pick up us and take us to Vigo, the largest city in Glacia.
Off to Vigo!
Tuesday, March 30, 2010
Finisterre, "The End of the Earth"
Finisterre
We got up early and caught the bus to the end of the earth. It is the furtherest western point of Europe, but the Portuguese claim that they have a point of land that is further. It's the same with soccer.
The idea of saving your feet by taking the bus is a misnomer. We still had to walk 6 kl uphill both ways and I had to kill a bear with my journal after we got there to actually get to the lighthouse and the rock that is "IT".
I stood there and looked out over the sleepy blue-green ocean as far as the horizon all around me except for the point I'm standing on. It filled up my senses exactly like the Johnny Denver song. Like Spring in the desert, like night in the forest. I just let it wash over me, I let it fill me up, the smell of the sea, the faint foggy horizon, the gentle waves on the rocks below. Just let it happen. It is the perfect way to make it all worth it.
We took pictures of eachother. We got someone to take a picture of both of us. We wrote on a piece of broken tile with a permement marker our names, where we were from and the date and placed it at the foot of the "Post of International Peace". Yes, we took pictures of eachother holding the "Next Adventure Bandanna". We are going to be on their wall!
There was a real magical meeting that happened. But you'll have to wait until I sleep for that part of the adventure. There are really amazing things to come, some more of our intentions fullfilled. Wow, I can hardly wait to tell you, but one can only sit and type so long before there is numbness and carpel tunnel and blurry eyes. So I'll just tell you that we met a mysterious person. Here's a clue: 007. Until tomorrow!
Sunday, March 28, 2010
Santiago de Compostela
Santiago de Compostela
We left Teo walking through narrow, winding streets in the rain. So glad Poe tested our rain gear in the shower before we came. We walked up steeply and down steeply. We went through narrow spaces where we had to turn sideways and manuver our packs through between buildings and then through pine forests. over rail road tracks and across bridges. One of them was wooden. We didn't stop to look for four leaf clovers or pick up pretty rocks. We just walked doggedly on to get out of the rain as fast as we could. Eric even strapped my bag to his for the last miles. He is such a sweetie cakes!
Finally, we were there. We came out of the forest on a hill overlooking the whole city of Santiago. It was a panoramic view. However, the decent was steep and we had to be careful not to slip. We headed straight for the Cathedral, and there is a specil office to get your stamp and your certificate of completion. It is strange to know that tomorrow I don't have to get up and walk a lot and figure out where to sleep etc. We went to the albergue to rest for the night.
03/25/10
The next day we went back to view the Cathedral. The Cathedral of St. James is his tomb. It is amazingly Barogue. Barogue style is designed to evoke emotion. I thought about all the work it took to make all the carvings, chandeliers, alters, cover it all with gold, mine the gold, haul the rocks etc. all without the benifit of electricity, trucks and all the stuff we have to help us do big jobs. The dome is high above and has an elaborate insence burner that can be swung from a rope. The day we were there, there was a choir of little girls practicing singing to the huge pipe organ with it's pipes way above our heads. It was idealic.
We went into the streets and Eric said he was so tired he couldn't think. I wanted some sweet and sour candies, so I went in this candy store and he waited for me on the street. When I came out, he was surrounded by a group of older teenagers, all in red jackets, and he was pontificating about our family and our farm. Then when I finally pulled him away from these truely interested individuals, we took a bus to the albergue and he talked to another group of young adults who had just come in from their pilgrimages until 1:00 in the morning. He's amazing!
I just posted a lot more and the computer gliched and I lost the whole thing. Don't you just love it when that happens?
03/26/03
Anyway, basically it took us another day of resting and debating to decide to stay another again in San Lazero Albergue and we decided to take the bus to Finisterre (The End of the Earth)tomorrow.
Hanging out in the albergue where everyone ends up after their Caminos is really interesting. They come from everywhere, Germany, England, Portugal, Russia and different parts of Spain like Barcelona. They use many different routes. They speak different languages, but usually one of the two we speak. They are a type of people. It's OK to say "Ola". It's OK to start a conversation out of thin air. They are friendly and tired They offer to share their food, their bandages, their shampoo. They want to tell you all about their experience. They have tips for travel. They tell you their favorite places to visit and even invite you to come home with them. It's amazing, it's a real unique place and we've enjoyed our days of indecision.
We sat in the lounge and Eric said, "Well, where should we go next" and I swear to god, this guy walks in right that exact second, says hi, asks where we're from, we tell him we are trying to decide where to go and Bamb! Pow! Capowe! he says, " Go to Algarth on the Portugal coast across from Africa. You?ll love it. I lived there for 6 years. It's great!" So, after Finisterre, we're headed south! Just like that. Cool. The time between asking and receiving is next to nothing!
But before we go, Off to Finisterre!
Friday, March 26, 2010
Padron and Teo
03/22/10
Padron & Teo
03/22/2010
Today was a strange day. Ana had to go to Vigo to teach and we needed to get back on the Path. So we road with her south as far as Caldis de Reis and started walking again. However, I started to get an visual aura that preceeds a migraine headache. I took some IBU but it just got worse. There were big spots in my vision and I couldn't see where I was going. So Eric got us on a bus and got us to the Albergue and got the handicapped room in the Albergue and got me lying down ASAP. So nice! After hrs. of lying in the dark, I felt a little better.
Here is one of the shuttered windows in our room that shows the thickness of the stone walls.
We went out in the evening air in Padron.
Padron used to be the burrial place of St. James before his remains were moved to Santiago. We walked the narrow winding streets, which is one of my favorite things to do, as the dimly lit city was easy on my eyes. The albergue was right next to a convent. We attended mass in a beautiful church next to the albergue. Eric translated mass for me.
Evidently the words are very repetitive. The mass was said in Spanish. The Priest was a little gruff with us. He only had six people at his mass in a huge ornate building.
I'm beginning to recognize the difference between Barogue, Romanesque, modern etc. Baroque is said to be decorated to evoke emotion. Lots of gold and chrubs and chandiliers etc.
One parishioner told us that the longer you look at this statue of Mary, the more real she seems. It's true!
Then we went to another church, the Church of Gilmerez built in 1456 as the Santiago of Padron. We did get to see the Roman anchor stone that St. James boat was moored to.
After a good nights sleep, we were ready to go again. We figure that we have extra miles walked since we started in Romagarias, so we aren't going to worry about it.
On to Teo!
03/24/10
Here is one of the shuttered windows in our room that shows the thickness of the stone walls.
We went out in the evening air in Padron.
Padron used to be the burrial place of St. James before his remains were moved to Santiago. We walked the narrow winding streets, which is one of my favorite things to do, as the dimly lit city was easy on my eyes. The albergue was right next to a convent. We attended mass in a beautiful church next to the albergue. Eric translated mass for me.
Evidently the words are very repetitive. The mass was said in Spanish. The Priest was a little gruff with us. He only had six people at his mass in a huge ornate building.
I'm beginning to recognize the difference between Barogue, Romanesque, modern etc. Baroque is said to be decorated to evoke emotion. Lots of gold and chrubs and chandiliers etc.
One parishioner told us that the longer you look at this statue of Mary, the more real she seems. It's true!
Then we went to another church, the Church of Gilmerez built in 1456 as the Santiago of Padron. We did get to see the Roman anchor stone that St. James boat was moored to.
After a good nights sleep, we were ready to go again. We figure that we have extra miles walked since we started in Romagarias, so we aren't going to worry about it.
On to Teo!
03/24/10
Teo
Teo is a small village, and our last town before Santiago. When we got there the albergue wasn't open yet. So Eric let me sit in a park while he made the trek up the hill to get the key. He let us in and my head hit the bed and I was gone. Eric said that there were some noisy Portuguese, but they came after I went to sleep and left before I awoke, so I never knew they were there.
Today I was determined to finish this walk. So, we got up and headed out without much looking around. The goal is in sight. Push on! Only 12kl. to go.
Thursday, March 25, 2010
Cuntis
Cuntis
03/18/2010
Today we stayed in a small village named Cuntis with a teacher from the school in Caldas de Reis. Her name was Ana and she teaches linguistics at the University in Vigo two days a week and at the Colegio (K-12 school). We met her during our short visit in the morning to the school. But she had a class lined up for us to speak to when we went back early in the afternoon. During her break she took us about 10 minutes by car to her home where she had a guest suite built into where I think the garage must have been before.
We were very grateful. There is no albergue in Cuntis and the one in Caldas de Reis is closed for remodeling. It started to rain in the afternoon and then began to rain in buckets.
Ana explained everything and introduced us to the dog "Guide" spoken "Guidi". He was a puppy with long legs and a happiness to see people.
Then, she gave us the key and left. Wow ! We have lucked out again!
We did our laundry and showered in the abudant hot water.
We went to the local library and wrote email to you all. There was an ancient petroglyph from the local Castrolandin. It is so old, over 3000 years old, right here in the library.
Ana and Albert are away because their 3 yr. old son named Anton has been in the hospital having his appendix out. So they are staying in Vigo near the hospital.
03/19/2010
We are still at Cuntis for two reasons. No one's home. And it's raining buckets! There are anciant (3000 yrs. BC) Celtic ruins very near here called "Castrolandin" that Eric would love to go see, but really the wind is soooo strong and the rain relentless. The Celts were hear before Santiago was a city. So, we are eatting, looking at maps and trying to decide if we should try the "anciant path" which is said to be a shorter route, but unmarked.
Today we text messaged Fermin, our fellow pilgrim from Briallos. He and his friend Hobby arrived in Santiage just 4 hrs. before we messaged him. His feet had blisters when we parted in Briallos. We offered him some mole skin, but he said no. Now he texted us and said that his feet are "destroyed". Guys, they've got to be macho! They did the Santiago from Tui, Spain, just a little more than required, in 4 or 5 days. They were really pushing it. Bet they didn't find any four leaf clovers or pick up any Mica.
I got an idea. What if I write a series of stories for the kids we've met and make 10 mistakes in eachone. They can read and find the mistakes. The stories could be about our Camino. I can call them "A Pilgrims Path to Learning English". The answers would be listed at the end. Maybe I could sell them to English classes all over.
Also, I like the idea of visiting classes in all kinds of places and telling them about our home and our family. It uplifts and pushes the envelope for them. They know more about the US and it's ordinary people, instead of just what they hear in the news or see in movies.
Can you loose weight in your ear lobes? I think that before I started this walk my ear rings fit tighter.
03/20/ 2010
Still in Cuntis. It's just us and the doggy here. toward the evening it stopped raining enough for us to go to town and get some groceries.
We toured the local cathedral called "The Cathedral of the Patron".
It's unusual because the virgin who is the patron was saved from the civil war damage, however nothing is known about her. No one knows her name or her deeds that led to her Sainthood. The local people continue to pray to her for their spiritual needs, but know nothing about her. In addition, she is a more lively and happy image than we have seen in any of the churches of all sizes we have visited. I like her. She's got spirit, no pun intended.
The statue of the "Pelegrino" or Pilgrim was special to us of course. He is always depicted with the shell, which is the symbol of the pilgrim as well as a little dog. This is a really nice one, so I thought I'd remember this one.
I also got a charm with a little ball in it that tinkles. The Shop keeper said that it was an "Angel Call". It's really pretty. We came home and Ana and her husband and son were home! They were just getting ready to go for a walk. We had quick introductions all around and then we went into our little suite and baked some potatoes and onions. They weren't as good as at Romarigaes. Why is that do you suppose?
When Ana and her husband Alberto and her son Anton came back, they asked us up to dinner with them.
I took the opportunity to get to know Anton a little and played with him in the family room. He didn't know what to think of me and definitely didn't want me to rearrange his toys. He had them in just the right place and that's the way he liked it. So, being who I am, I kept asking what I could play with. I finally got permission to play with a little Lego character. He loves Peter Pan and acted out battles between Peter and Capitan Hook.
We had fried eggs and french frys. If you'll notice, at the far end of the kitchen in the picture, there is an ancient stone sink. It is low enough that with the help of a little stool, Anton can reach it. He takes his dish from the table and washes it after every meal. How did they do that? I tried to teach my kids to do that for years. Pretty cool if you ask me!
Then we talked to them until 1:00 AM. We had to remember that Ana hadn't been in on any of the classes where we told about ourselves. So, she and her family didn't know anything about us. We told them everything! They were so interesting and lovely people. We had a very good time.
03/21/2010
Guess what? It's sunny today. Today they asked us up for breakfast. They don't have to feed us, we have our own food. But they insist. So we go up.
Then we all walked to Castrolandin.
We explored the whole ruin of stacked rock houses made in circles and covered (long ago) with thached roofs.
There was only one that was rectangle. It was made by the Romans.
There were several pools where the inhabitants collected water.
There were some unique flowers that Eric has not seen anywhere else.
There were also some petroglyphs that were older than the ruins. Very interesting. It was eerie. I could feel the people who had built the circles and lived there. We had a great time.
When we all came back they fixed us a big meal. In Spain, the big meal is in the middle of the day.
Afterward, they mixed orange serbert with champagne in stemware for desert. Their Aunt came over to check on Anton. Her name was Ella, pronounced Aya. It simply means "her".
We talked to her and we took pictures posed by a big stone avery in their back year. Anton has his own camera and loves taking pictures. So we also posed for him. His pictures were pretty good, even for a 3 yr. old.
Anton is smart. His Aunt brought him a puzzle with English pictures that you match up with letters and pictures and he caught on right away when I taught him how to use it.
I got invited into his room, and I understand it is a privilege. We played cards, pictures with the English names. If he could say it in English he won the card. If I could say it in Spanish, I got the card. Boy, he thought it was sooooo funny when I couldn't say the Spanish name.
It was fun to play with him. We also liked Ana and Albert very much. Albert is an architect. Here's some advice for unmarried girls. Marry an architect and you will always live in a creative house. Their house was so nifty. Every little thing was handy and well thought out. It was fun to stay there. We talked with them late into the night again. But now since the sun's come again, we will be moving on in the morning.
Off to Padron!
We toured the local cathedral called "The Cathedral of the Patron".
It's unusual because the virgin who is the patron was saved from the civil war damage, however nothing is known about her. No one knows her name or her deeds that led to her Sainthood. The local people continue to pray to her for their spiritual needs, but know nothing about her. In addition, she is a more lively and happy image than we have seen in any of the churches of all sizes we have visited. I like her. She's got spirit, no pun intended.
The statue of the "Pelegrino" or Pilgrim was special to us of course. He is always depicted with the shell, which is the symbol of the pilgrim as well as a little dog. This is a really nice one, so I thought I'd remember this one.
I also got a charm with a little ball in it that tinkles. The Shop keeper said that it was an "Angel Call". It's really pretty. We came home and Ana and her husband and son were home! They were just getting ready to go for a walk. We had quick introductions all around and then we went into our little suite and baked some potatoes and onions. They weren't as good as at Romarigaes. Why is that do you suppose?
When Ana and her husband Alberto and her son Anton came back, they asked us up to dinner with them.
I took the opportunity to get to know Anton a little and played with him in the family room. He didn't know what to think of me and definitely didn't want me to rearrange his toys. He had them in just the right place and that's the way he liked it. So, being who I am, I kept asking what I could play with. I finally got permission to play with a little Lego character. He loves Peter Pan and acted out battles between Peter and Capitan Hook.
We had fried eggs and french frys. If you'll notice, at the far end of the kitchen in the picture, there is an ancient stone sink. It is low enough that with the help of a little stool, Anton can reach it. He takes his dish from the table and washes it after every meal. How did they do that? I tried to teach my kids to do that for years. Pretty cool if you ask me!
Then we talked to them until 1:00 AM. We had to remember that Ana hadn't been in on any of the classes where we told about ourselves. So, she and her family didn't know anything about us. We told them everything! They were so interesting and lovely people. We had a very good time.
03/21/2010
Guess what? It's sunny today. Today they asked us up for breakfast. They don't have to feed us, we have our own food. But they insist. So we go up.
Then we all walked to Castrolandin.
We explored the whole ruin of stacked rock houses made in circles and covered (long ago) with thached roofs.
There was only one that was rectangle. It was made by the Romans.
There were several pools where the inhabitants collected water.
There were some unique flowers that Eric has not seen anywhere else.
There were also some petroglyphs that were older than the ruins. Very interesting. It was eerie. I could feel the people who had built the circles and lived there. We had a great time.
When we all came back they fixed us a big meal. In Spain, the big meal is in the middle of the day.
Afterward, they mixed orange serbert with champagne in stemware for desert. Their Aunt came over to check on Anton. Her name was Ella, pronounced Aya. It simply means "her".
We talked to her and we took pictures posed by a big stone avery in their back year. Anton has his own camera and loves taking pictures. So we also posed for him. His pictures were pretty good, even for a 3 yr. old.
Anton is smart. His Aunt brought him a puzzle with English pictures that you match up with letters and pictures and he caught on right away when I taught him how to use it.
I got invited into his room, and I understand it is a privilege. We played cards, pictures with the English names. If he could say it in English he won the card. If I could say it in Spanish, I got the card. Boy, he thought it was sooooo funny when I couldn't say the Spanish name.
It was fun to play with him. We also liked Ana and Albert very much. Albert is an architect. Here's some advice for unmarried girls. Marry an architect and you will always live in a creative house. Their house was so nifty. Every little thing was handy and well thought out. It was fun to stay there. We talked with them late into the night again. But now since the sun's come again, we will be moving on in the morning.
Off to Padron!
Thursday, March 18, 2010
Caldas de Reis
Today we walked to Caldas de Reis from Bariallos.
It was a short way so we arrived early in time to talk with one English class in the morning. Today is their quarter exams and everyone is busy.
But there is no albergue here so we don't know where we are going to stay tonight. Eric is asking about pensionas. A teacher named Ana is every excited. She has a little flat for visitors. She will take us at her second break. Another miracle!
So we go down into town and buy food and see the sites to wait for her break. There is a hot springs that pours out of the mouths of two lions.
I wish I could dive in, but alas, I'm dressed in layers and it is in a public square. So I sit and wish.
We get some more pictures copied because we are running low. We brought them to give away, and we enjoy doing it. We meet two women who run the local photo copy shop.
We have quite a lively conversation. We pull out our brag book and show they our kids. They are really impressed with Eric's photos. We take pictures of them with both of us and they make copies on the spot. We leave there and arrive at the school early only to find that the math teacher wants us to talk with her class.
We are a regular show now, one teacher said we were "exotic" for the children. I'm sure she ment that in a good way.
Then Ana took us to her flat and left to go be with her 3 yr. old who has had his appendix out and is at his Grandma's house recouperating.
We are alone with the dog, Guide, who hasn't had anyone to play with all week since the child has been in the hospital and at Grandma's.
So we shower, wash our clothes and play with Guide. He is an outside dog, so I pet him opening the door a little and putting my hand out. It is raining buckets.
Now we have walked to the "bibliotecas" or library using the Internet to write to you.
Eric is busy planning a wonderful tour of North Western Spain for the few days after we reach Santiago. I want to go to " the End of the Earth" in Finisterre.
Tomorrow we may stay here and look around. It seems that there are some interesting ruins of the original people who lived here. Eric is having fun researching it right now. Tomorrow is Father's Day and Saint Jose's day. The kids have the day off from school. Our next goal is Padron maybe, Eric is planning maybe to take the ancient road to Santiago that varies from the map we have and by passes Padron. So I will let you know!
Portas and Briallos
03/17/10
Today we were up and ready to be picked up by San Martin and be dropped off at the school. We spoke with 12 yr. olds this morning. We had a good time. Eric and I are getting a routine. He makes this joke, I tell about the Columbia River and the return of the Salmon. He plays a guessing game with them about how many children we have. I do show and tell with the pictures of our family we have in a little purple album we brought. He tells another joke. and so on. Eric finds our farm on the Satilite pictures of Google maps. Everyone is amazed to see our farm.
We tell all about the container house San is building.
We even have a picture of a 20 ft. container that someone had turned into a little summer house along the Camino. We showed it to everybody. We explain about why there are so many cargo containers in the US. We talk about trade with China. We talk about President Obama. We tell them that our kids are still sleeping and it is yesterday there. We talk about time zones.
They had a big feast prepared for us. As it happens, we arrived on Pilgrim's day. There was a funny picture of a cartoon pilgrim in the newspaper. So we had about five kinds of empanadas, both sweet and savory. We were really amazed. They loaded us up with the leftovers and we are in heaven.
We were going to walk on this afternoon to Portas this afternoon and speak to classes tomorrow, but they have exams tomorrow and it would be better for them if we could come and talk with them this afternoon. So, the Kindergarten teacher said he would drive us to Portas.
So in the afternoon we spoke with the English class in Portas. We spoke with 14 to 17 years old today. By now we have spoken with hundreds of children.
The English teacher's name was Susana. She took us to view a beautiful falls near by and showed us the town. Then she drove us to the albergue in Briallos, the next stop. It isn't cheating because we have already walked more than the required kilometers for the Santiago since we started way down in Portugal.
At Briallos we met fellow pilgrims Ferman and Hobby from Vigo, Spain. They were walking from Tui to Santiago in 4 days. Fermin already had some evil blisters. I offered him some Mole skin, but he said he'd be OK. Ferman spoke a little English, but Eric could speak to him in Spanish. Hobby had a really Galacian accent with many words including the sound "th" in them. I could hear the difference right away. They were nice and we had good conversations with them. Ferman had a girlfriend in Britain named Allison. He was really in love with her and had been courting her for 6 years. But she had a career and didn't want to get to serious. Hobby had a wife and she was 5 months pregnant. He was pretty excited about the baby. So we learned a little about their lives. Later Ferman turned out to be a very good friend to us.
So tomorrow On to Caldas de Reis!
Today we were up and ready to be picked up by San Martin and be dropped off at the school. We spoke with 12 yr. olds this morning. We had a good time. Eric and I are getting a routine. He makes this joke, I tell about the Columbia River and the return of the Salmon. He plays a guessing game with them about how many children we have. I do show and tell with the pictures of our family we have in a little purple album we brought. He tells another joke. and so on. Eric finds our farm on the Satilite pictures of Google maps. Everyone is amazed to see our farm.
We tell all about the container house San is building.
We even have a picture of a 20 ft. container that someone had turned into a little summer house along the Camino. We showed it to everybody. We explain about why there are so many cargo containers in the US. We talk about trade with China. We talk about President Obama. We tell them that our kids are still sleeping and it is yesterday there. We talk about time zones.
They had a big feast prepared for us. As it happens, we arrived on Pilgrim's day. There was a funny picture of a cartoon pilgrim in the newspaper. So we had about five kinds of empanadas, both sweet and savory. We were really amazed. They loaded us up with the leftovers and we are in heaven.
We were going to walk on this afternoon to Portas this afternoon and speak to classes tomorrow, but they have exams tomorrow and it would be better for them if we could come and talk with them this afternoon. So, the Kindergarten teacher said he would drive us to Portas.
So in the afternoon we spoke with the English class in Portas. We spoke with 14 to 17 years old today. By now we have spoken with hundreds of children.
The English teacher's name was Susana. She took us to view a beautiful falls near by and showed us the town. Then she drove us to the albergue in Briallos, the next stop. It isn't cheating because we have already walked more than the required kilometers for the Santiago since we started way down in Portugal.
At Briallos we met fellow pilgrims Ferman and Hobby from Vigo, Spain. They were walking from Tui to Santiago in 4 days. Fermin already had some evil blisters. I offered him some Mole skin, but he said he'd be OK. Ferman spoke a little English, but Eric could speak to him in Spanish. Hobby had a really Galacian accent with many words including the sound "th" in them. I could hear the difference right away. They were nice and we had good conversations with them. Ferman had a girlfriend in Britain named Allison. He was really in love with her and had been courting her for 6 years. But she had a career and didn't want to get to serious. Hobby had a wife and she was 5 months pregnant. He was pretty excited about the baby. So we learned a little about their lives. Later Ferman turned out to be a very good friend to us.
So tomorrow On to Caldas de Reis!
