Return to Lisbon

Return to Lisbon
04/10/10

Today we gave Tina her stepping stone and she gave me two going away presents too. We hugged and she helped us call a taxi to get our heavy packs to the hotel. There we caught the 11:30 bus to Albuferia. Then we changed buses for the long ride to Lisbon. When we got to Lisbon we took Rafael's advice and got a pensiona in the Praca Alegria neighborhood. Then we went for Internet and food.

We missed Rafael's call because we were in a dead zone for phone reception. They came ready with a present of a bottle of wine and everything. That was sad. We really wanted to see them before we left. Well, we'll just have to keep in touch online.

We lunched on the steps of a theater dedicated to Reina Maria II. On the corner of the plaza was the police station. Tucked into a small corner of the plaza was an apparent restaurant with very exclusive clientèle. It was called Gambrinus. Taxis came and went dropping off the well dressed and not famous. The doorman, whom we named Anton because it suited him, stood in his crisp uniform and hat guarding the entrance. He dutifully and with flare conducted the business of arrival and departure, taxi fetching, food delivery of take out to the police, parking cars in a plaza so small and already filled with parked cars that only the truly creative could find a sliver of space to insert another.

We made up a story that we continued throughout our vigil while waiting for phone calls. We told it to each other as the scene unfolded. Gambrinus became the place where high level deals are cut by behind-the-scenes officials of the government. Anton knew it all but wasn't telling. He was the essence of discretion. The police pulled up and he handed them bribes through the car window in brown paper bags. Every passer-by was an agent of one kind or another, their seemingly innocent cell phone conversation reporting on us, the spies on the steps. On and on our fictional narrative went to entertain ourselves as we waited.

There were plenty of characters to enliven our tale. Some others joined us on the steps, at a polite distance. They were holding the microphones behind their newspapers, adjusting for maximum pick up. There were boys with dreads on skateboards passing by and young people with instruments in cases. We commented on how the secret service was recruiting them younger and younger these days. This is how we pleasantly passed the afternoon.

04/11/10

Wow, you should see the bathroom to this little room we have. It's all in sky blue tile. Only in Portugal! Hot water, huge tub. I'm in heaven. We'll just live in it, forget the bed room.

We had moved to the central plaza because we were aware that our room must be a dead zone for phones. We couldn't afford to miss any more calls. We watched the world go by. Lisbon is a busy place with lots of things going on, little dramas all around. Emergency vehicles with loud sirens, homeless people begging, tourist buses with open upper decks going by and lots of style. Everybody wares the latest fashions. I guess Europe is where they come from, so if you want to know what will show up in the US next season, see it here first.

Fatima called about 7:30 and picked us up in front of the train station. Her husband, Manual was with her. They took us on an unexpected tour of Old Lisbon by night. We ended up at a little restaurant Called Va E Volte. They treated us to a dinner of Pulpo, (Polvo in Portuguese) and blackened pork. Then we walked to a point over the city and admired the lighted monuments and cathedrals. It was a different Lisbon than we'd seen all day. We got to see it through the eyes of people who love Lisbon.

They took us to their house, a cozy place with mementos of their trips to 5 continents. They are very interesting people! We slept in their children's rooms, since their children are both grow up. Good sleep.

04/12/10

Today Fatima dropped us off at the train station and we went to Sintra, a village that had come highly recommended. On the train we chatted with a woman who spoke good English. When she got to her stop she said, "Never change, you're perfect the way you are". Wow, such an unexpected compliment. I have changed though. I know it will be a challenge to keep what I've learned with me when I get home and back to a familiar space. However, I am determined to keep what I have learned. I have learned that I am safe and rocked in the cradle of the universe. All I have to do is put an intention out into the universe, and I get what I need. It's so cool! Hopefully it will work when I get back.

Today we are ordinary tourists doing the tourist thing. We buy a ticket for a bus that stops at four popular points of interest. We got to a Moorish Castle from 800 AD. It was a long way to the top of a mountain and the bus dropped us off at the bottom, so today is a walking day. We climbed ancient stairs up and up.

Four years ago when we were in Paris I didn't climb all the way to the top of the Eiffel Tower. I stopped half way. I've always regretted that. So today I am determined not to give up until I can see from here to the sea at the very top of the highest turret of the castle. The steps are worn with the footfalls of many people through the ages. They are steep and clearly made for solders who have an ample stride. Not exactly standard modern rise. The wall was very tall, the steps are not regular and it is not railed.

I must admit that I stumbled and if I hadn't been holding Eric's hand I would be a stain on the mountain side for sure. These Moorish guys really build CASTLES! I kept climbing. The developing view was unbelievable! From every successive vantage point I could see more of the area below. It would be hard to sneak up on this castle without being seen. We wandered in and out of the rock ruins of rooms and towers, granaries and water storage. This castle was totally prepared for a siege of substantial length. Huge boulders were scattered along the mountain side. They just built them into the wall if they were in the path of the build.

On this sight there were signs of bronze age habitation. I guess being up high on the hill was a good place to be for any group who wanted to be safe over the millennia. The Moorish Castle was conquered by Dom(king)Afonso Henriques in 1147. That must have been something to see. I don't know how anyone could do it, it's such a formidable fortress. It was eerie to put my hand on the groves where the bowmen shot arrows at their enemies, foes exchanging places over time.

When I got to the very highest tower I could see all the way to the sea, waves crashing in white spray. I could see the town and all the surrounding towns clear to some mountains. It was a panoramic view that truly took my breath away. It felt very heady and powerful somehow. I could imagine how an arrogant leader full of himself could look out over what he controlled from this place and feel the power. It's enough to make a person feel invulnerable. But of course, they weren"t.

Oh, I forgot to tell you the best part. Across the street from the train station in Sintra was the first thrift store I had seen in Portugal. It was in business to raise money to care for street dogs. I was in my element. I got the last of the charms for my bracelet there and some great presents too. 7.50 Euro.

Then it was time to catch the train back to Lisbon. Fatima picked us up and made dinner for us. We got to meet her daughter who is an architect like her father. She had done the Camino by bike with her scout troupe when she was a teen. She was fun and the food was good. We had a great time our last night in Europe.